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a_short_treatise_on_head_wear_ancient_and_modern [2021/09/08 20:43] (current) – created briancarnell
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 +<html>
 +<div class="chapter">
 +<div class="figcenter">
 +<a id="i_cover" name="i_cover"><img src="https://brian.carnell.com/wiki/_media/etext:w:walter-goater-head-wear-i_cover.jpg" alt="" width="730" height="1000" /></a>
 +</div>
 +</div>
  
 +
 +<p class="space-above2"></p>
 +<div class="chapter">
 +<p class="center">  Copyrighted, 1885,</p>
 +<p class="center">  By R. DUNLAP &amp; CO.</p>
 +
 +<p class="space-above4"></p>
 +
 +<p class="center">  <span class="smcap">Lockwood Press</span>, 126 &amp; 128 Duane St., New York.</p>
 +</div>
 +<p class="space-above2"></p>
 +
 +<div class="chapter">
 +<div class="border">
 +<div class="figcenter">
 +<a id="i_title" name="i_title"><img src="https://brian.carnell.com/wiki/_media/etext:w:walter-goater-head-wear-i_title.jpg" alt="" width="551" height="450" /></a>
 +</div></div></div>
 +
 +<p class="space-above4"></p>
 +<div class="chapter">
 +<h1>  A SHORT TREATISE<br />
 +
 +ON<br />
 +
 + * HEAD * WEAR *<br />
 +
 +ANCIENT AND MODERN,</h1>
 +
 +<p class="center p80">  ILLUSTRATED BY</p>
 +
 +<p class="center p120">  Walter H. Goater.</p>
 +</div>
 +
 +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
 +
 +<div class="chapter">
 +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_2"></a>[2]</span></p>
 +<h2 class="nobreak" id="Head_Wear_Ancient_and_Modern">Head Wear, Ancient and Modern.</h2>
 +</div>
 +
 +
 +<p class="drop-cap">T<span class="smcap">racing</span> the history of man as far back as we can
 +under civilized conditions of life, we find that in one
 +form or another he has made use of some artificial contrivance
 +to protect his head.</p>
 +
 +<p>Nature, in her bounty, seems to have provided in part
 +against the necessity of the hat, by giving to the head a
 +thick and abundant covering of hair, but, instead of considering
 +this as an indication that the head required no
 +other protection, mankind seems rather to have regarded
 +it as a hint to keep this most important part of the body
 +well covered.</p>
 +
 +<p>The hat being the most conspicuous article of dress,
 +and surmounting all the rest, it is only natural to find that
 +from the earliest times special care and attention has been
 +given to its adornment&mdash;showy plumes, rare jewels and
 +rich bands of gold and silver being used at different periods
 +to decorate it.</p>
 +
 +<p>Its form and frequently its color have also been made
 +to designate the rank and character of the wearer: As the
 +Monarch by his crown, the Cardinal by his red hat, which
 +betokens his readiness to spill his blood at any time for the
 +sake of Christ, and the court fool by his cap with bells. In
 +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_3" name="Page_3"></a>[3]</span>one form it serves to designate the military officer, in another
 +the peaceful Quaker or the quiet man of letters.</p>
 +
 +<div class="chapter">
 +<div class="figcenter">
 +<a id="i_005" name="i_005"><img src="https://brian.carnell.com/wiki/_media/etext:w:walter-goater-head-wear-i_005.jpg" alt="" width="420" height="550" /></a>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 1.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 2.</em></p>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 3.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 4.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 5.</em></p>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 6.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 7.</em></p>
 +</div></div>
 +
 +<p class="space-above2"></p>
 +
 +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_4" name="Page_4"></a>[4]</span></p>
 +<p>The materials employed in the manufacture of hats have
 +been various, stuffs of every kind and color having entered
 +into their composition. The birds have been robbed
 +of their brilliant plumage, the beasts of the field of their
 +wool and hair. Amphibious creatures have yielded their
 +fur, while the mines of the earth have given up precious
 +metals and stones. All these have been used by man to
 +make a suitable covering for his august head. Felt
 +hats are by far the most ancient, silk hats being of quite
 +recent introduction. They were known in Florence about
 +a century ago, but were not introduced into France until
 +1825.</p>
 +
 +<p>Tradition ascribes the discovery of felting to <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Clement.
 +It occurred in this manner: While on one of his
 +charity missions, becoming weary and foot-sore, he took off
 +his sandals to ease his feet, which were all bruised from
 +long walking over rough roads. While resting by the wayside
 +an opportunity was afforded him of rescuing a little
 +lamb from the cruel clutches of a wily fox that was pursuing
 +it. The grateful little creature jumped round him and
 +licked his hand for joy, and it was in fondling it that <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr>
 +Clement observed some loose wool, which he gathered.</p>
 +
 +<p>While carelessly handling it the thought suddenly
 +struck him that it would be good to bind up the wounds
 +on his feet with. No sooner was it thought than done, and
 +he found it so soothing that he immediately resumed his
 +journey.</p>
 +
 +<div class="chapter">
 +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_5" name="Page_5"></a>[5]</span></p>
 +<div class="figcenter">
 +<a id="i_007" name="i_007"><img src="https://brian.carnell.com/wiki/_media/etext:w:walter-goater-head-wear-i_007.jpg" alt="" width="417" height="550" /></a>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 8.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 9.</em></p>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 10.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 11.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 12.</em></p>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 13.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 14.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 15.</em></p>
 +</div></div>
 +
 +<p class="space-above2"></p>
 +
 +<p>At night when he came to remove his sandals he was
 +surprised to find, instead of fine, soft wool, a piece of cloth,
 +so firm and thick that he could not pull it apart. This was
 +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_6" name="Page_6"></a>[6]</span>called felt, and <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Clement was made the patron saint of
 +the craft. (However, it is only fair to state that, according
 +to some authorities, there is abundant evidence to show
 +that felting was known to the ancients long before the
 +time of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Clement or the Christian era.)</p>
 +
 +<hr class="tb" />
 +
 +<p>The most ancient form of head wear we find to be the
 +cap such as is seen on figures representing the goddess of
 +liberty. Hoods, also, of various shapes, date back long
 +before hats appeared, the latter for a long time only being
 +employed as an article of extra clothing in winter, worn
 +over the hood or when going on a journey.</p>
 +
 +<hr class="tb" />
 +
 +<p>Among the ancient Egyptians very peculiar shaped caps
 +were worn, like from Figures <a href="#Page_3">1 to 7</a>. Some of them would
 +rise to a great height above the head, and then descend
 +very low upon the chest in the shape of lappets. Those of
 +the priests and of their attendants were often loaded with
 +a profusion of symbolical decorations, composed of feathers,
 +lotus leaves and other natural products.</p>
 +
 +<p>In religious processions it was common to wear masks
 +that covered the whole head and neck down to the shoulders.
 +These represented the heads and busts of various
 +sacred animals, such as the ibis, hawk, bull, dog and ram.</p>
 +
 +<hr class="tb" />
 +
 +<div class="chapter">
 +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_7"></a>[7]</span></p>
 +<div class="figcenter">
 +<a id="i_009" name="i_009"><img src="https://brian.carnell.com/wiki/_media/etext:w:walter-goater-head-wear-i_009.jpg" alt="" width="422" height="550" /></a>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 16.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 17.</em></p>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 18.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Figs 19 &amp; 20.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 21.</em></p>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 22.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 23.</em></p>
 +</div></div>
 +
 +<p class="space-above2"></p>
 +
 +<p>Our modern hat can be traced back to the <em>pileus</em> worn
 +by the ancient Greeks when on a journey. Hats with brims
 +were also worn by them, though some authorities claim
 +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_8"></a>[8]</span>that the Greek citizen of mature years never wore a head-covering,
 +it being confined to youths, workmen and slaves.
 +The <em>pileus</em> was a closely-fitting woolen skull-cap, which was
 +sometimes worn as a lining to the helmet. It was adopted
 +by the Romans at their public games and festivals by those
 +who had once been slaves, and by the aged and infirm for
 +sake of warmth.</p>
 +
 +<p>From ancient coins and medals we find that the Romans
 +went bareheaded, except at sacred rites, games, festivals,
 +and when at war.</p>
 +
 +<p>Baldness was looked upon by them as a great deformity,
 +and Cæsar, mighty conqueror though he was, yet
 +could not make nature add one single hair to his very
 +scanty supply, is said to have prized the honor of wearing
 +a laurel crown above all the other dignities conferred
 +upon him by the senate, as it served to conceal his
 +weakness.</p>
 +
 +<p>In the city, to screen themselves from the heat, rain or
 +wind, the Romans frequently threw the folds of their robe
 +over their heads, but if they met any one to whom they
 +owed respect, they immediately let the folds drop and remained
 +bareheaded.</p>
 +
 +<p>Figs. <a href="#Page_5">10 and 12</a> are specimens of ancient Greek helmets,
 +while Fig. <a href="#Page_5">11</a> represents a young warrior equipped for battle.
 +Fig. <a href="#Page_5">8</a> shows the <em>petasus</em>, not greatly unlike our tennis
 +hat of to-day. Fig. <a href="#Page_5">14</a> is the Phrygian bonnet, which held
 +its own for so many centuries.</p>
 +
 +<hr class="tb" />
 +
 +<div class="chapter">
 +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_9"></a>[9]</span></p>
 +<div class="figcenter">
 +<a id="i_011" name="i_011"><img src="https://brian.carnell.com/wiki/_media/etext:w:walter-goater-head-wear-i_011.jpg" alt="" width="418" height="550" /></a>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 24.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 25.</em></p>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 26.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 27.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 28.</em></p>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 29.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 30.</em></p>
 +</div></div>
 +
 +<p class="space-above2"></p>
 +
 +<p>The inhabitants of Eastern nations always have their
 +heads covered. In China the men wear hats in shape and
 +size resembling large umbrellas, like Figs. <a href="#Page_7">18 and 23</a>, or
 +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_10"></a>[10]</span>else small conical caps similar to Fig. <a href="#Page_7">17</a>. These are made
 +of beautifully wrought cane-work and often have pictures
 +of birds and flowers painted upon them. They also have
 +another cap, which though richer in material is not so
 +graceful. It is similar in shape to Fig. <a href="#Page_7">22</a>, made of black
 +velvet with a blue silk centre and a red tassel surmounting
 +the top. The distinctive mark of different ranks among
 +the mandarins consists in the color and value of the button
 +worn on the cap. Figs. <a href="#Page_7">19 and 20</a> show the peculiar
 +head-dress worn by the Japanese when going forth to
 +battle. In Arabia, notwithstanding the heat of the climate,
 +the men wear a most preposterous head-dress. Frequently
 +fifteen cloth or linen caps are worn one over the
 +other, the upper one being gorgeously embroidered in gold
 +with a sentence from the Koran worked upon it. Not satisfied
 +with this curious coiffure they add to it by wrapping
 +around the outer cap a large piece of muslin ornamented
 +at the ends with silk or golden fringe, which stream loosely
 +on the shoulders.</p>
 +
 +<p>A plume of white heron’s feathers is the distinctive
 +badge of a chief among the Uzbek Tartars.</p>
 +
 +<p>Throughout the East the turban is generally worn, its
 +height being a mark to denote the rank of the wearer.
 +In color it is generally of the most brilliant hue, and of
 +richly embroidered materials. Great taste and ingenuity
 +are exercised in the manner of twisting it around the head
 +so as to make the folds appear as graceful as possible.
 +The different turbans on page <a href="#Page_9">9</a> give some idea of the
 +various shapes they can be made to assume.</p>
 +
 +<p>Emirs or Sharifs, descendants of Mohammed’s daughter,
 +are alone allowed the high honor of adorning their
 +heads with green turbans.</p>
 +
 +<div class="chapter">
 +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_11"></a>[11]</span></p>
 +<div class="figcenter">
 +<a id="i_013" name="i_013"><img src="https://brian.carnell.com/wiki/_media/etext:w:walter-goater-head-wear-i_013.jpg" alt="" width="419" height="550" /></a>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 31.</em></p>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 32.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 33.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 34.</em></p>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 35.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 36.</em></p>
 +</div></div>
 +
 +<p class="space-above2"></p>
 +
 +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_12"></a>[12]</span></p>
 +<p>On page <a href="#Page_11">11</a> we have some types of African head-dress,
 +Figs. <a href="#Page_11">31, 32 and 34</a> showing what the natives of that dark
 +continent have done for themselves in the way of head
 +adornment, entirely unaided by fashion or the knowledge
 +of what their brothers in other parts of the world were
 +wearing. Fig. <a href="#Page_11">33</a>, though of Asiatic origin and finer workmanship,
 +is quite as grotesque in design as anything the
 +wild tribes of Africa could devise.</p>
 +
 +<p>At one time the Turks had a law by which none but
 +themselves could wear turbans of rich texture. Their
 +Greek subjects were condemned to wear dark cotton caps
 +as a mark of their servitude. Armenians were compelled
 +to appear in ridiculous-looking balloon-shaped caps, while
 +the Jews were only permitted to wear brimless caps resembling
 +inverted flower-pots. Later on, the Sultan issued a
 +decree that all of his subjects should wear a red fez instead
 +of their turbans. This law was received with the most determined
 +and indignant opposition. So obnoxious to their
 +feelings was this change, that the discontented party set
 +fire to the houses of all those who favored it, and though
 +finally the Sultan’s wishes passed into a law, it was years
 +before many of his subjects became reconciled to it. Fig. <a href="#Page_13">40</a>
 +shows a turban worn by one of the Sultans; Fig. <a href="#Page_13">41</a>, the fez
 +of the people. Figs. <a href="#Page_13">37, 38, 42 and 43</a> on the same page are
 +samples of Russian hats. In some parts of that country
 +the head-covering of the people is made of birch bark and
 +plaited grasses; but fur is the material most commonly
 +used. The prevailing male head-dress of the inhabitants
 +of Asia Minor appears to be the Phrygian bonnet, of which
 +the characteristic features with them are its point on top,
 +bent forward, and its long flaps descending on the shoulders.
 +This style of hat was worn for many centuries, and
 +traveled as far west as Venice, where the Doge always
 +wore one.</p>
 +
 +<hr class="tb" />
 +
 +<div class="chapter">
 +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_13"></a>[13]</span></p>
 +<div class="figcenter">
 +<a id="i_015" name="i_015"><img src="https://brian.carnell.com/wiki/_media/etext:w:walter-goater-head-wear-i_015.jpg" alt="" width="418" height="550" /></a>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 37.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 38.</em></p>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 39.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 40.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 41.</em></p>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 42.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 43.</em></p>
 +</div></div>
 +<p class="space-above2"></p>
 +
 +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_14"></a>[14]</span></p>
 +<p>As a part of defensive armor the hat became the helmet,
 +which has changed but little in shape from the earliest
 +times. Very elaborate and fantastic were some of the
 +early forms, with their double or two-story heads, Figs. <a href="#Page_15">46
 +and 47</a>, to give the impression of increased height. The
 +workmanship, also, was very beautiful, some of the ancient
 +helmets being entirely covered with chasing and designs
 +of the most intricate character. With the Greeks and
 +Romans the subject of armor was one of importance, and
 +from their ancient monuments we can learn much of their
 +form and beauty. Page <a href="#Page_15">15</a> shows several kinds of helmets
 +worn during the middle ages.</p>
 +
 +<hr class="tb" />
 +
 +<p>In Spain serious disturbances took place in Madrid in
 +the eighteenth century over an attempt being made to
 +banish the <em>sombrero</em>. While in other countries the fashion
 +of hats has been undergoing changes, in Spain the same
 +shapes are worn year after year, with but little modification.
 +Page <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, with the exception of Figs. <a href="#Page_19">52 and 53</a>,
 +which are Mexican, show several forms of Spanish hats.
 +Fig. <a href="#Page_19">51</a> is the style commonly worn by the priests when
 +traveling about.</p>
 +
 +<p>Page <a href="#Page_21">21</a> gives some German types; Fig. <a href="#Page_21">61</a> is the hat of
 +a judge; Figs. <a href="#Page_21">58, 60 and 62</a> are military hats, while Fig. <a href="#Page_21">63</a>
 +shows a Teutonic fool’s cap decorated with bells.</p>
 +
 +<hr class="tb" />
 +
 +<div class="chapter">
 +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_15"></a>[15]</span></p>
 +<div class="figcenter">
 +<a id="i_017" name="i_017"><img src="https://brian.carnell.com/wiki/_media/etext:w:walter-goater-head-wear-i_017.jpg" alt="" width="419" height="550" /></a>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 44.</em></p>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 45.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 46.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 47.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 48.</em></p>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 49.</em></p>
 +</div></div>
 +<p class="space-above2"></p>
 +
 +<p>In France the clothing of the head has long been a subject
 +of special consideration, and many have been the styles
 +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_16"></a>[16]</span>that have emanated from there. At first, as in most of the
 +other countries mentioned, hoods were worn, but when
 +Charles <abbr title="the seventh">VII</abbr>. made his triumphal entry into Rouen, in 1449,
 +he wore a hat lined with red velvet and surmounted with a
 +rich plume of feathers. From this date hats and caps became
 +general throughout France.</p>
 +
 +<p>A curious appendage that was worn with the hat for
 +many years was like Fig. <a href="#Page_23">66</a>, consisting of a piece of black
 +stuff which was fastened to one side of the hat, the other
 +end being thrown over the left shoulder. This band was
 +often held in the hand and the hat allowed to fall off from
 +the head and rest on the back.</p>
 +
 +<p>Another peculiar head-dress was the Capuchin hood,
 +Fig. <a href="#Page_23">68</a>. This had a long pointed tail that hung down the
 +back, and in front was buttoned close up to the chin.
 +Some gallants twisted the tails into all sorts of fantastic
 +forms and carelessly poised them on the top of the head.
 +With the shaven faces that were always worn with this
 +hood, the men all looked very much like monks. It was
 +fear of this appearance that induced Francis <abbr title="the first">I</abbr>. to set the
 +fashion of velvet caps in his kingdom. Fig. 67 represents
 +a French military hat. For the past fifty years the high
 +silk hat has been the most popular style in France.</p>
 +
 +<p>At one time there was a law in France which compelled
 +all bankrupt Jews to wear a green hat, so that people might
 +avoid losses by trading with them. The slang expression
 +“Do you see anything green about me,” is said to have
 +derived its origin from this circumstance.</p>
 +
 +<hr class="tb" />
 +
 +<div class="chapter">
 +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_17"></a>[17]</span></p>
 +<div class="figcenter">
 +<a id="i_019" name="i_019"><img src="https://brian.carnell.com/wiki/_media/etext:w:walter-goater-head-wear-i_019.jpg" alt="" width="423" height="550" /></a>
 +<p class="caption center p90">RUSSIAN.</p>
 +<p class="caption center p90">PRINCE OF WALES. ** FRENCH.</p>
 +<p class="caption center p90">POPE’S TIARA. ** ENGLISH. ** SULTAN’S TIARA.</p>
 +<p class="caption center p90">DUKE’S. ** AUSTRIA.</p>
 +<p class="caption center p90">GERMAN.</p>
 +</div></div>
 +<p class="space-above2"></p>
 +
 +<p>The early Anglo-Saxons for years wore no other covering
 +for their heads than their long flowing hair, which they
 +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_18"></a>[18]</span>sedulously cultivated. When they did take to a covering,
 +about the eighth century, it was in the form of a cap made
 +most likely from the undressed skin of animals. The
 +Britons, at the time of the invasion of Cæsar, wore on
 +their heads a conical hat, which derived its name from the
 +cabin or hut in which they lived, it strongly resembling it in
 +shape. Helmets, with a projecting piece in front called a
 +nasal, were worn by the early Briton warriors. The nasal
 +was afterward discarded, as it was found to afford too
 +convenient a hold to the enemy of the wearer, Stephen,
 +at the siege of Lincoln, having been seized by the nasal of
 +his helmet and held a prisoner.</p>
 +
 +<p>It was not until after the Norman conquest that the use
 +of hats became general in England. “A hatte of bever”
 +was worn by some one of the nobles met at Clarendon
 +about the middle of the twelfth century, and in the “Canterbury
 +Tales” we hear mention of the merchant wearing
 +on his head a “Flaunderish bever hat.”</p>
 +
 +<p>In the fourteenth century we find a very peculiar kind
 +of head-gear popular in England, Figs. 70 and 72. First,
 +on the head is a close-fitting skull-cap, which is encircled
 +by a roll of cloth, flat like a band, or twisted turban-wise.
 +Above is another piece of cloth, cut and clipped around
 +the edges in all manner of queer shapes, the whole falling
 +around the head in a confused manner. Such hoods were
 +worn by the ancient Knights of the Garter, and are said to
 +have been borrowed from Italy.</p>
 +
 +<p>It is in this same century that for the first time in England
 +we find a feather in the hat, Fig. 75. It was stuck in
 +perfectly straight in front, as they had not as yet acquired
 +any grace in its adjustment.</p>
 +
 +<div class="chapter">
 +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_19"></a>[19]</span></p>
 +<div class="figcenter">
 +<a id="i_021" name="i_021"><img src="https://brian.carnell.com/wiki/_media/etext:w:walter-goater-head-wear-i_021.jpg" alt="" width="422" height="550" /></a>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 50.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 51.</em></p>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 52.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 53.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 54.</em></p>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 55.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 56.</em></p>
 +</div></div>
 +<p class="space-above2"></p>
 +
 +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_20"></a>[20]</span></p>
 +<p>During the reign of Queen Elizabeth a great variety of
 +hats and caps were worn. They were mostly made of velvet
 +and richly decorated with jewels, bands of gold or silver
 +lace and feathers. A writer of that time describes them
 +thus: “They wear them sharpe on the crowne, peaking up
 +like the speare or shaft of a steeple, standing a quarter of
 +a yard above the crowne of the head. Some others are
 +flatte and broade on the crowne like the battlements of a
 +house. Another sort have round corners, sometimes with
 +one sort of band, sometimes another; now black, now
 +white, now russet, now red, now green, now yellow, now
 +this, now that&mdash;never content with one color or fashion
 +two days to an end; and thus they spend the Lord’s
 +treasure consuming their golden years and silver days
 +in wickedness and sin.” Those must have been glorious
 +days for the hatter when the fashions changed so rapidly
 +that men were obliged to buy a new hat every two or
 +three days.</p>
 +
 +<p>During this same reign laws were made compelling the
 +lower classes to wear on the Sabbath a cap of peculiar
 +shape and make.</p>
 +
 +<p>The escape of Lord Nithsdale from the Tower, in the
 +early part of the eighteenth century, was principally
 +effected by the large riding-hoods worn at that time, which
 +he put on, along with his wife’s dress and cloak. Such
 +hoods were ever after called Nithsdales.</p>
 +
 +<p>On page <a href="#Page_25">25</a> are pictures of some of the early forms of
 +English hats. Figs. 76 and 78 belonged to the clergy. Fig.
 +77 is a Scottish bonnet.</p>
 +
 +<hr class="tb" />
 +
 +<div class="chapter">
 +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_21"></a>[21]</span></p>
 +<div class="figcenter">
 +<a id="i_023" name="i_023"><img src="https://brian.carnell.com/wiki/_media/etext:w:walter-goater-head-wear-i_023.jpg" alt="" width="421" height="550" /></a>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 57.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 58.</em></p>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 59.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 60.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 61.</em></p>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 62.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 63.</em></p>
 +</div></div>
 +<p class="space-above2"></p>
 +
 +<p>The Puritans discarded all ornament of any kind
 +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_22"></a>[22]</span>from their dress and wore the steeple hat, high and
 +narrow in the crown, with a broad brim (Fig. 83). The
 +Cavalier of the same era wore a low, broad-crowned
 +hat with a feather stuck on one side. The principal
 +changes that have taken place in hats from time to
 +time have been in the height of the crown and in
 +the width of the brim. As this latter became wider it
 +led to the device of looping it up, and thus originated
 +the cocked hat that was worn during the eighteenth
 +century.</p>
 +
 +<p>To all Americans this hat brings patriotic recollections
 +of revolutionary days&mdash;for Washington and his generals all
 +wore cocked hats. On page <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, Fig. 85, we have the hat of
 +the “Minute Man.” Also one worn, Fig. 79, during the
 +good old Knickerbocker days. Fig. 84 shows the style
 +of hat worn by Kossuth when on a visit to this country in
 +1851. Previous to this time the only hat made for gentlemen
 +was the high silk hat and cloth caps for boys, but
 +a few weeks after Kossuth’s appearance in the country
 +thousands of hats similar to his were sold, the demand for
 +them being universal. Since then soft and stiff felt hats
 +have been brought to perfection in quality and style in
 +this country far superior to any made abroad. This was
 +shown in our Centennial Exhibition, in 1876, by Dunlap &amp;
 +Co. receiving the first prize for their productions over all
 +competition of foreign and domestic manufactures. Figs.
 +86, 87, 88 are three different styles of high hats worn about
 +fifty years ago. In the latter part of the eighteenth
 +century the gaudy ornaments of lace, jewels, feathers,
 +&amp;c., gradually began to disappear from hats, giving
 +place to the sober black band and simple buckle, and
 +when that, too, had its day and passed away, the hats
 +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_23"></a>[23]</span>of men were left without any ornament, but in much
 +better taste and more in keeping with their use than
 +were those of old.</p>
 +
 +<div class="chapter">
 +<div class="figcenter">
 +<a id="i_025" name="i_025"><img src="https://brian.carnell.com/wiki/_media/etext:w:walter-goater-head-wear-i_025.jpg" alt="" width="423" height="550" /></a>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 64.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 65.</em></p>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 66.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 67.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 68.</em></p>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 69.</em></p>
 +</div></div>
 +<p class="space-above2"></p>
 +
 +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_24"></a>[24]</span></p>
 +<p>Hats have not only been used for the practical purpose
 +of covering the head, but from remote time have played
 +their part in many important actions in life. Among the
 +Romans the hat was the symbol of liberty, and slaves were
 +presented with one on receiving their freedom. The
 +Quaker hat dates from the origin of the sect in the middle
 +of the seventeenth century, Fig. 80. After the assassination
 +of Cæsar coins were issued by Brutus and Cassius, on
 +which was represented a cap between two daggers. Even
 +at a later period the hat or cap was identified with liberty
 +as in the republic of the Netherlands. After the emancipation
 +from Spain a hat became their national emblem, while
 +we all know the part Gessler’s hat played in gaining for
 +the Swiss their freedom. The common practice of doffing
 +the hat when meeting a friend is thought to be a
 +modification of the ancient custom of unclothing some
 +part of the body when in the presence of one to whom respect
 +was due.</p>
 +
 +<p>Many persons profess that from the dress alone they
 +can give you a true estimate of the character of the man.</p>
 +
 +<p>While this is, perhaps, expressing it rather strongly, it
 +is certainly true that the material and style of one’s dress
 +does, to a large degree, denote the wearer’s character; and
 +especially is this so of hats and the manner in which they
 +are worn.</p>
 +
 +<div class="chapter">
 +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_25"></a>[25]</span></p>
 +<div class="figcenter">
 +<a id="i_027" name="i_027"><img src="https://brian.carnell.com/wiki/_media/etext:w:walter-goater-head-wear-i_027.jpg" alt="" width="425" height="550" /></a>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 70.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 71.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 72.</em></p>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 73.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 74.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 75.</em></p>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 76.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 77.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 78.</em></p>
 +</div></div>
 +<p class="space-above2"></p>
 +
 +<p>The man of refined tastes will always be found to be
 +very fastidious in regard to his head wear, buying only the
 +finest quality of hat, while a coarse nature will be satisfied
 +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_26"></a>[26]</span>with a cheap slouch hat. The prosperous business man
 +also can generally be picked out by his hat, it being something
 +substantial and good of its kind, while the man of
 +mean and parsimonious habits will usually have a hat to
 +correspond with his dwarfed nature.</p>
 +
 +<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"> <div class="stanza">
 + <div class="verse"> “Have a good hat; the secret of your looks</div>
 + <div class="verse"> Lives with the beaver in Canadian brooks;</div>
 + <div class="verse"> Virtue may flourish in an old cravat,</div>
 + <div class="verse"> But man and nature scorn the shocking hat.”</div>
 +</div></div></div>
 +
 +<div class="chapter">
 +<div class="figcenter">
 +<a id="i_029" name="i_029"><img src="https://brian.carnell.com/wiki/_media/etext:w:walter-goater-head-wear-i_029.jpg" alt="" width="419" height="550" /></a>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 79.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 80.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 81.</em></p>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 82.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 83.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 84.</em></p>
 +<p class="caption center p90"><em>Fig 85.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 86.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 87.</em>&nbsp;&nbsp;<em>Fig 88.</em></p>
 +</div></div>
 +<p class="space-above2"></p>
 +
 +<p>We have now followed a few of the changes that hats
 +have undergone from the earliest times to the present, and
 +would bring our remarks to a close with a notice of
 +the house of R. Dunlap &amp; Co., which was founded by Mr.
 +Robert Dunlap in 1857, who opened a small store November
 +14, at 557 Broadway, between Spring and Prince
 +streets, and by originality of designs and selling the finest
 +class of hats, he soon became the popular hatter of the
 +city. Two years later, in 1859, Mr. Paran Stevens, the
 +Napoleon of hotel-keepers, induced Mr. Dunlap to occupy
 +a store under the Fifth Avenue Hotel, which was just then
 +completed, and who desired only those as tenants who sold
 +the best goods in their line. At this time the hotel, situated
 +at the corner of Twenty-third street and Fifth avenue,
 +was considered very far up town, and it was predicted that
 +Dunlap’s venture would be a failure; but the young and
 +enterprising hatter soon became the leading hatter of the
 +country. The firm remained there for twelve years, and
 +then removed to their present location, at 178 and 180 Fifth
 +avenue. Finding the demand for their hats increasing
 +from the residents of Brooklyn, Jersey City and surrounding<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_27"></a>[27]</span>
 +suburbs, in 1876 they moved their store from 557 to
 +179 Broadway, near Cortlandt street, as their down-town
 +store.</p>
 +
 +<div class="chapter">
 +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_28"></a>[28]</span></p>
 +<div class="figcenter">
 +<a id="i_030" name="i_030"><img src="https://brian.carnell.com/wiki/_media/etext:w:walter-goater-head-wear-i_030.jpg" alt="" width="377" height="494" /></a>
 +<p class="caption center p90">FALL STYLES, 1885.</p>
 +<p class="caption center p90">N<sup>o</sup> 52.</p>
 +<p class="caption center p90">N<sup>o</sup> 52.&nbsp;&nbsp;N<sup>o</sup> 53.</p>
 +<p class="caption center p90">N<sup>o</sup> 53.</p>
 +<p class="caption center p90">PRICE OF SILK HATS, $8.00.</p>
 +<p class="caption center p90">In Ordering give Number.</p>
 +</div></div>
 +<p class="space-above2"></p>
 +
 +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_29"></a>[29]</span></p>
 +
 +<div class="chapter">
 +<div class="figcenter">
 +<a id="i_031" name="i_031"><img src="https://brian.carnell.com/wiki/_media/etext:w:walter-goater-head-wear-i_031.jpg" alt="" width="393" height="494" /></a>
 +<p class="caption center p90">FALL STYLES, 1885.</p>
 +<p class="caption center p90">N<sup>o</sup> 56.</p>
 +<p class="caption center p90">N<sup>o</sup> 54.&nbsp;&nbsp;N<sup>o</sup> 55.</p>
 +<p class="caption center p90">N<sup>o</sup> 55.</p>
 +<p class="caption center p90">STIFF HATS, IN BLACK AND BROWN, $5.00.</p>
 +<p class="caption center p90">In Ordering give Number.</p>
 +</div></div>
 +<p class="space-above2"></p>
 +
 +<div class="chapter">
 +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_30"></a>[30]</span></p>
 +<div class="figcenter">
 +<a id="i_032" name="i_032"><img src="https://brian.carnell.com/wiki/_media/etext:w:walter-goater-head-wear-i_032.jpg" alt="" width="399" height="494" /></a>
 +<p class="caption center p90">FALL STYLES, 1885.</p>
 +<p class="caption center p90">N<sup>o</sup> 57 STIFF.</p>
 +<p class="caption center p90">N<sup>o</sup> 58 SOFT.&nbsp;&nbsp;N<sup>o</sup> 59 SOFT.</p>
 +<p class="caption center p90">N<sup>o</sup> 58 SOFT.</p>
 +<p class="caption center p90">SOFT HATS, IN BLACK AND BROWN.</p>
 +<p class="caption center p90">In Ordering give Number and state price of Hat desired.</p>
 +</div></div>
 +<p class="space-above2"></p>
 +
 +<div class="chapter">
 +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_31"></a>[31]</span></p>
 +<div class="figcenter">
 +<a id="i_033" name="i_033"><img src="https://brian.carnell.com/wiki/_media/etext:w:walter-goater-head-wear-i_033.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="498" /></a>
 +<p class="caption center p90">FALL STYLES, 1885.</p>
 +<p class="caption center p90">N<sup>o</sup> 63.</p>
 +<p class="caption center p90">N<sup>o</sup> 60.</p>
 +<p class="caption center p90">N<sup>o</sup> 61.</p>
 +<p class="caption center p90">N<sup>o</sup> 62.</p>
 +<p class="caption center p90">SOFT POCKET-HATS, IN BLACK, BROWN AND BLUE.</p>
 +<p class="caption center p90">In Ordering give Number.</p>
 +</div></div>
 +<p class="space-above2"></p>
 +
 +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_32"></a>[32]</span></p>
 +<p>The popularity of the Dunlap hat induced the firm to
 +increase their manufacturing facilities by the erection of a
 +large factory on Seventh avenue, New York, where all the
 +silk and opera hats are made, and a straw-hat factory at
 +132 and 134 South Fifth avenue, New York, and also the
 +erection of one of the largest and most complete felt hat
 +factories in this country at the corner of Park and Nostrand
 +avenues, Brooklyn.</p>
 +
 +<p>The growing demand for these hats in the West induced
 +the firm to open a branch store under the Palmer
 +House, Chicago, about three years ago, which has proved
 +a grand success; also, quite recently, they have opened an
 +elegant store on Chestnut street, Philadelphia. Besides
 +their own stores in New York, Chicago and Philadelphia,
 +their celebrated hats are sold by authorized agents in all
 +the principal cities of the United States, where the patrons
 +of the Dunlap hat can purchase their hats of the
 +same style, quality and price as sold by them in their own
 +stores.</p>
 +
 +
 +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
 +
 +<div class="chapter">
 +
 +<div class="border">
 +<div class="figcenter">
 +<a id="i_adv" name="i_adv"><img src="https://brian.carnell.com/wiki/_media/etext:w:walter-goater-head-wear-i_adv.jpg" alt="Advertisement, ladies hats" width="414" height="550" /></a>
 +</div></div></div>
 +
 +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
 +
 +<div class="chapter">
 +<div class="figcenter">
 +<a id="i_back" name="i_back"><img src="https://brian.carnell.com/wiki/_media/etext:w:walter-goater-head-wear-i_back.jpg" alt="Presented by Dunlap &amp; Co" width="244" height="200" /></a>
 +</div></div>
 +</html>
a_short_treatise_on_head_wear_ancient_and_modern.txt · Last modified: 2021/09/08 20:43 by briancarnell